Unstable images are, unfortunately, one of the most common errors and with the worst solution that we can find as photographers. A bad frame always has a better solution, we can crop here or there without losing too much image quality. We can also save some of the lights and shadows, increase or reduce the contrast… All these small adjustments or fixes of our image, will practically not cause us loss of quality, but a destabilized image is another story, if the image is shaken, it is shaken , bad luck, there is little to do or little room for improvement. So the best thing is to prevent and act before the tragedy occurs 😉 because, in addition, the trepidations caused by our own movement are difficult to detect with the naked eye; we usually notice them when we happily open the images on our computer and, surprise! Our image is moved, shaken, useless 🙁
So let’s see a few tips so that, if your photography fails, at least it’s not because of the destabilization of the camera 🙂
hold the camera well
Do you think there is no difference? There is! And not only for your own comfort, the way you hold your camera can turn you into a tripod or a mixer 😉 So try to hold your camera the way firmer possible, offering Support pointsthrough your own body fixed and balanced. If necessary, look for external support points. Everything so that you transmit as little movement as possible to your camera.
Focal length and minimum speed
Always remember the formula that gives us, approximately, the minimum speed at which we must shoot so that the images do not remain blurred:
1/Focal length of your lens, or what is the same, we must always work at a speed above the focal length of our objective. For example, if I’m working with a 50mm, with a speed above 1/50 s, it should be enough to freeze the image. However, this is an approximate formula, some of us have a good pulse and will probably be able to work at slower speeds (1/30s) without juddering, and others will need faster speeds because we have a bad pulse or because we like to literally run behind of the image 😉
Therefore, if you have little light and you can choose, it will be more useful to shoot with a wide angle than with a telephoto lens, since the first will allow you to work faster, thus reducing the risk of trepidations. In short, the less you use the zoom in low light situations, the better 😉
Ok, we are taking photos and we are lucky to see in situ that they are looking bad for us, blurred, moved, shaken, in short, meat for the recycling garbage. Luckily we are in time to solve the problem that we have identified as a lack of speed. Now, how do we get more speed without leaving us with underexposed images?
Use the exposure triangle
Photography is a tug of war between ISO, speed and aperture. Any exposure triangle variable you modify affects the other two. If you can understand how they interrelate with each other and what and how they affect the image, you will be able to do magic with your images 😉 Let’s see what we can do to gain speed and thus avoid trepidations:
The higher the ISO, the greater the sensitivity of the sensor to light (it is as if an extra light had been turned on in the background of your image). But beware, you should not exceed the limits of your ISO since by doing so, you will add noise to your image. Find out what is the maximum ISO that your camera can work at without losing image quality.
Opening the diaphragm is synonymous with a greater entry of light, but at the same time with a loss of depth of field. Keep this in mind because the depth of field (in-focus area of the image) can significantly modify your image.
Activate the stabilizer of your camera or lens
They have been invented precisely for situations like this in which you have little light and you need to fix the movement that you yourself transmit to the camera. If your camera or lenses are relatively new, you probably have them built in, so check them out and if you have them, activate them 🙂
use a tripod
It is the easiest and most effective way to eliminate camera shake, allowing you not to modify the aperture, ISO or speed variables.
- Add a remote Switch into the equation and your image will be perfect when it comes to jitter. If you don’t have an external trigger, set the internal trigger of your camera. This will avoid the movement that you can transmit when you touch the camera shutter.
Don’t you have a tripod? Well, inventiveness to power. Shelves, street benches, acquaintances’ backs, car roofs… Whatever you can think of (with caution 😉 ) Whatever you find around you that allows you to fix the body of your camera well.
flash
The flash has many lovers and detractors although, be that as it may, it has its stellar moments. If you are looking for stabilization, it may be one of those moments 😉
Better than about…
Unstable images are one of the most common and treacherous problems that photographers encounter, as well as being one of the most frustrating since they are very difficult to detect in situ (on screen) unless they are very obvious. For this reason, it is always a good idea to apply this premise: it is better than not missing. It is better that you have some excess ISO or speed or diaphragm opening, than that the image stays just, apparently correct, and you are very disappointed when you get home. In terms of stabilization, it is better to be conservative and play it safe 😉
I hope that after this article destabilized images will be a thing of the past ;-). If you want to try to help put an end to this frustrating photographic scourge, share it with whoever you think might need a little help 😉 Thank you very much and until next time 🙂