The 10 most common questions in macro photography and their answers (How many have you ever asked yourself?)

Macro photography is, without a doubt, one of the photographic disciplines that most attracts our attention. And it is not for less, because it offers us completely different pictures than what we are used to seeing with the naked eye.

This type of photography is capable of elevate unseen detail to the category of artwhere the hidden, the invisible, suddenly comes to life before the eyes of a dedicated photographer and gives us fascinating images.

And with eyes wide open we want, and also need, to achieve that image. We want to collect those details that surround us and elevate them, make them protagonists of our best photos. Now, where to start?

Well, let’s start by solving what I think are the questions we ask ourselves the most when we get into macro photography 🙂 .

1. How to distinguish a macro photography?

a macro photography is one that has an aspect ratio of 1:1. Or, explained in a more understandable way, it is the one that reflects the exact size of what is photographed on the sensor. That is, if the eye of an insect measures, for example, 1cm in real life, this eye will occupy exactly 1cm of the sensor.

2. Can I extend the depth of field?

You may have noticed that macro photographs have a great defocus or, what is the same, very shallow depth of field.

If you want to increase this depth of field, you can close the diaphragmor use focus bracketing.

What is focus bracketing?

The focus bracketing It consists of taking several images of the same scene, varying the area focused on each one of them. Subsequently, they must be stacked using a editing program so that the focus of each image “adds up” and you get the different areas in focus.

3. Where should I focus?

Placing the focus correctly in macro photography is essential since, with such a shallow depth of field, focus is key to highlighting the subject. center of interest from image.

In animals and insects, the focus should be on the eye, unless you want to highlight some other part of the scene for a particular reason.

In flowers, textures, etc., the focus must be placed where we want to direct the viewer’s gaze. It’s usually a good idea to help yourself rule of thirds to compose and place the focus on these occasions.

4. What is the best way to expose in macro photography?

The ideal in any type of photography is ensure that the light does not deceive the photometer, which happens more than we usually think. This happens because the sensors of our cameras are designed to measure on a neutral gray tone. Anything out of that hue can fool the sensor.

the gray card

The ideal is, therefore, to look for medium tones in the scene, although what will really give you good results is to get one gray chart and measure on it. They are cheap and 100% reliable. Here you have an example.

the histogram

other item indispensable 😉 is to parse the histogram. It is the only reliable way you will have of verifying that the exposure you have made is correct. Therefore, the recommendation is that you always have it activated and learn to analyze it. If you need help with this topic, I recommend this article.

right the histogram

“What what?” If you don’t know what it is, I’ll explain it briefly. right histogram means slightly overexposing the image, that is, exposing it with more light than would initially be “correct”.

In digital photography it is in the lights where we have the greatest amount of information. That means it’s easier to “recover” the lights in processing. Not instead the shadows, which quickly show noise when trying to lighten them.

righting the histogram we have, therefore, greater dynamic range in the scene. It is important to take the lights to the right of the histogram but always making sure that it is not cut off, that is, that it does not end abruptly because in that case the light information is lost, it is simply pure white with no more information.

5. What is the best focus mode?

No two macro situations are the same, and photographing a coin is not the same as photographing a salamander. However, since focus is extremely important in macro photography, the ideal is to use the mode AF S or one-shot. It is the most precise mode, although notice, it is the most suitable for static subjects ;).

6. What macro lens do I buy?

There is an answer for each type of photographer, although I understand that, as amateurs, we need some general tips with which to start. This is what I would recommend you look at when choosing a macro lens.

focal length

The focal length in macro lenses is important because it primarily determines How close are you going to have to get to the subject? photographed to achieve the desired magnification.

You have macro lenses from 24mm to 300mm.

  • The short focal They are usually useful for photographing the habitat that surrounds your subject, but they will make you have to get very close to the subject if you want a good magnification.
  • The average focal They would go from 60mm to 150mm approximately. These focal lengths are the most recommended to start with, since you don’t need to get so close to the subject, and at the same time you can have some scenery around you. My personal recommendation is a 105mm.
  • The long focal They would go from 150mm to 300mm approximately. Ideal for situations where we cannot get as close to the subject. As with non-macro lenses, they produce a lot of background blur.

Brightness

When we talk about macro photography, a bright lens is essential. Not only because of the amount of light that a good diaphragm aperture lets through to the sensor, but also because of the possibility of obtaining good background blurs.

You already know that the more aperture of the diaphragm, the less depth of field or greater blur.

diaphragm opening

The ideal is an aperture of f/1.4, but since they are quite priceless, it is normal to end up dreaming of one of f/2.8 :).

Diaphragm sheets

Diaphragm sheets determine the quality of the bokeh or image blur. The more diaphragm blades, the better, in principle, the lens construction. This information always appears in the specifications of each lens. I don’t think it’s decisive, but it can help you decide between one objective or another.

7. What if I don’t have a budget for a macro lens?

Fortunately, there are alternatives to macro lenses. Not only for those who do not have a budget, but also for those who want to see if macro photography is really their thing before investing more seriously.

investment rings

They are rings that are screwed on the camera body and on the front of the lens and allow it to be turned. In this way, the minimum focus distance is reduced, that is, it allows you to get much closer to the subject, so that it reaches the sensor with a much larger size. I don’t know if you have already tried it, but when you flip the lens, it becomes a macro 😉

extension tubes

The extension tubes are placed between the camera and the lens and allow you to vary not the focal length, but the minimum focus distance, that is, they reduce the distance at which you can focus. In this way, when you get closer, the objects or subjects you photograph will appear much larger, or what is the same, the effect that is achieved with macro photography.

Here you have a very complete article on investment rings and extension tubes in case you have found them interesting 🙂

close-up lenses

Close-up lenses (or lenses close-up) are filters with different magnifications that are placed in front of the objective. You have different magnifications (+1, +3, +5) and they can be “added” one on top of the other.

It is clear that with any of the above accessories, you will not have the quality of a macro lens. You lose light and sharpness, but they are an alternative with which to take your first steps.

8. Do I need a tripod? Which?

Yes, without a tripod it is difficult for you to make much progress in macro photography. To start the one you need is the one you have. If you don’t have any or you think that macro photography is really your thing, I recommend that you look for one with these characteristics:

  • That allows to invert the central column.
  • The less leg sections you have, the better, more stable.
  • The thickness of the legs is also important. Look for it to be above 1.5cm.
  • Legs must be able to move independently
  • Make sure it’s tall enough that you don’t have to open it all the way.
  • Make sure it is capable of supporting the weight of the camera with your heaviest lens and then some.
  • The carbon fiber ones are more stable, lighter and transmit less vibrations than the aluminum ones.
  • As for heads, I recommend the panoramic head, which is the most precise for macro photography.

That said, if you already have one, use it until you see if you are really going to take advantage of it. Once you decide that you need a new one, my recommendation is that you save up and buy a good tripod.

9. What can I photograph?

Well the answer is, almost everything you can think of ;). While there are images or themes inherent in macro photography, you can always go further. These are some recurring themes in macro photography which you can start with:

  • insects
  • small reptiles
  • Flowers
  • Snowflakes
  • Raindrops
  • coins
  • Everyday objects: pencil tips, screws, etc.
  • Eyes
  • natural textures
  • oil drops

This article may interest you as an inspiration. Then take a look at this one too.

10. I already have everything, where do I start?

Well, start with what you have at hand, in the controlled environment of your home or studio. There where you can organize yourself without fear of the wind, that the bug escapes you or that the electricity goes out.

Start by buying some flowers and add a few drops of water to them. Look for interesting plans, attractive frames. Find a box of colored pencils and photograph them.

Or a tomato cut in two, or a coin from your purse, or put oil in a bowl of water and photograph it. In short, start to familiarize yourself with macro photography in a comfortable and controlled environment, and then go out and find new adventures if you feel like it 😉

I hope that if you had any questions about macro photography, they have been answered in this article. If you have any more questions, you can write us in the comments and we will try to solve it as best as possible 😉

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