Manual Mode: Lose the Fear with this Complete Guide and Get Impressive Photos

In this guide I intend to reveal all the secrets of manual mode. Because when you see a spectacular portrait with an out-of-focus background, a long-exposure night photograph that leaves you speechless, or a landscape with spectacular sharpness…

When you look at all these seemingly offline photos, they all have something in common, guess what it is? What is it about those photos that make you cringe? “wooow” when you are in front of them? Well, the secret is that, to do those incredible magic tricks with light and movement, the Manual mode.

Learning to photograph in manual mode was a before and after for me when I started in the world of photography and it will surely be for you. So open your eyes wide, relax and get ready to learn once and for all how to shoot in manual mode.

INSIDE THIS ARTICLE… 📖

What is manual mode in photography?

The manual mode (M) is the one that allows us to decide all the aspects of the photographic shot: if we want more or less depth of field, more or less sharpness, freeze the movement or capture it, etc. Therefore, it is the most precise way to photograph that we have and the one that gives us the most creative freedom.

The manual mode, therefore, is the answer to any question you ask yourself at a photographic level. Whether you want to make a long exposure, freeze a drop of water, blur the background of a portrait or a sharp landscape from start to finish… everything! You will get it by photographing in manual.

Now, is manual mode the best way to start photography? Let’s say you’ve always been photographing automatically, or you’ve just made the leap from your mobile phone to your first DSLR or mirrorless camera. Is it advisable to jump directly to manual mode?

I leave you the answer in this video and it has to do with the semi-manual or semi-automatic modes.

What is the exposure triangle?

Whether learning to shoot in manual or semi-automatic mode, the first and most important thing you need to know is how the variables of the exposure triangle work. Once you master it, you will see that there is no photo that can resist you. Let’s see what it is.

As you can see in the chart above, the exposure triangle is made up of three variables: ISO, diaphragm opening Y shutter speed. All these variables have in common the ability to add or subtract light depending on how we use them. On the other hand, each one has a “side effect” associated with this ability to add or subtract light.

I tell you.

shutter speed

shutter speed It is the time that the shutter remains open, allowing light to pass to the sensor (where the image is printed). The longer this time, the more light enters the sensor. On the other hand, if the shutter remains open for less time, less light reaches it.

As a “side effect” to the shutter speed, we find that:

  • A fast speeds (the shutter opens and closes rapidly) the movement of the scene is “frozen”. It is useful, for example, when we want to photograph someone running, a drop of water, or any situation that we want to “freeze”.
  • Instead, to slow speeds (the shutter remains open for longer) we get that any movement that happens during this time is printed on the image. Imagine light trails from cars, or the silk effect on rivers, for example.

In most cameras you also have the «Bulb» Mode. This mode refers to the shutter speed, but for those speeds that exceed the maximum established in each camera, which is normally around 30″. Once this time has passed, the camera offers you this fully manual method in which you must open and close the shutter “manually”. It is mainly for very long exposure night photography.

We explain here in detail what Bulb mode is.

Returning to the shutter speed, in this article you will be able to go deeper because we explain everything very, very detailed (and very easy to understand), but if you prefer another type of format with more images and less text… within video!

diaphragm opening

The diaphragm opening it is also directly related to the light input from the lens to the sensor of our camera.

The diaphragm is located in the lens and depending on the value that we indicate, it will let more or less light through. The diaphragm opening is established by the letter f/ and the maximum and minimum aperture values ​​depend on each lens.

The more the diaphragm is open, the more light passes to the sensor (and the f/ value is lower) and the more the diaphragm is closed, the less light we let pass to the sensor (and the f/ value is higher).

As a “side effect” of the diaphragm opening, we find:

  • A more diaphragm opening more light but at the same time the depth of field is reduced (the area in focus in the image is smaller). Ideal, for example, for portraits and any photo in which we want a great defocus.
  • A smaller diaphragm opening less light but at the same time the depth of field is enlarged (more area in focus in the image. Ideal, for example, for landscapes.

You can go deeper into the diaphragm opening in this complete article.

diaphragm opening

ISO

ISO is the sensitivity level of the sensor to light. The higher the ISO value, the more sensitive it is to light (for example, when we need light at night or indoors). The lower the value, the less sensitive to light (for daytime images in natural light, for example).

As a “side effect” to the ISO value, we find:

  • At a high ISO value more light is able to capture the sensor, but at the same time, more noise appears in the image (less sharp). Tip: ideally, find out at what ISO value your camera stops giving acceptable results in terms of sharpness, and try not to exceed it.
  • At a low ISO value, the sensor captures less light but maintains a greater sharpness in the image. That is, the lower the value, the sharper (it would be approximately around 100 ISO).

You want to know more? I recommend our most complete article on ISO in photography.

The steps in photography and manual mode

Summarizing what I have explained to you so far, the exposure is controlled through three variables: diaphragm opening, shutter speed and ISO.

Now, how do they relate to each other? Well, through what in photography we call “the steps”. We have them very well explained in this article, so I won’t go too long but, above all, the steps in photography are the way in which the three variables of the exposure triangle are related to each other to find a correct exposure. Basically it is about compensating between the three variables, the addition or subtraction of light that we do with each of them. For example, upload one step of light is to go from 100 to 200 ISO or to go from an aperture f/4 to f/2.8.

For example, starting from an image with a correct exposure, if I open the iris because I want to blur more of the background of my portrait, by doing so I will be letting in more light, which means that, if I do not correct this “extra” light input, the image will be overexposed. To correct it, I will play with the other variables: ISO and/or speed. In this case, I can take the opportunity to lower the ISO to obtain more sharpness in the image or, if I already have it at the minimum or I need a faster shutter speed, I can take advantage of it to photograph at a faster speed.

Learning the relationship of the three variables is synonymous with learning to shoot in manual mode. There is no more secret than that. So I recommend that you spend as long as necessary at this point because here is the key to photography in manual mode.

Still not clear? Think about balance, anything you “unbalance” on one side (by adding or subtracting light) becomes unbalanced and therefore you have to balance it in some way. If you subtract a point of light from one side, you just have to add it from the other ;). It’s easier than you think!

At this point I advise you to take the camera and practice seeing the relationship of the three parameters in your exposure. Do several tests: open the diaphragm and compensate first with the speed, then with the ISO. Then play with the speed and compensate with the aperture, then with the ISO, and so on. Enter here something with a name a bit ugly, but really simple: the Law of reciprocity. In this article we explain it very easily and with examples to learn how to balance the exposure triangle. A must read.

Wow, you don’t have the camera at hand… well, I have the perfect solution! Do you know that there are photographic simulators with which to practice without a camera and without leaving your chair? What are you waiting for to try them?!

focus in manual mode

Focus problems are surely some of the ones that take us as photographers the most, and although cameras are getting better every day in this regard, there are still times when an autofocus is not the right solution.

In these situations I recommend using a manual approach:

  • When there is little contrast, the focus is lost and it cannot focus.
  • When there is very little light.
  • When you exceed the minimum focus distance of your lens.
  • When you want to focus drops of water on a glass.
  • When you want to focus, for example, a few dust motes.

You can switch to manual focus, usually on the camera’s own lens (MF).

Tricks to learn how to use the manual mode

If you are clear about the functions of aperture, speed or ISO, it is time to start messing around with manual mode. I do not advise you to start practicing at a decisive moment, in front of the most important photograph of your life. Do it calmly, when you don’t really need that photograph in front of you, even at home, from your comfortable sofa.

The decisive moments will come with practice; It can be very frustrating to lose a great photo because of the pressure of shooting in manual when you haven’t mastered it yet, so without pressure, don’t go shooting your best friend’s wedding in manual mode if you haven’t mastered it yet, it would be a total disaster .

With that being said, there are a few tricks that are going to help you through that learning curve you’ve started by reading this manual mode article. My first piece of advice is to apply the 7×7 rule, I’ll explain what exactly it is in this article.

You will find another 6 methods that I give you to photograph in manual mode in this other article and if you are more of a visual memory, I have for you an exclusive infographic with tricks to learn how to use the manual mode that you will love.

There is no exact recipe, what I can assure you is that it can only be learned with practice and perseverance. That is the most important part.

Manual mode issues

Some problems you may encounter when photographing…