My photographic equipment is quite minimalist. A camera, a pair of fixed focal lengths, a tripod, a shutter and a filter neutral density. Little more. I always try never to buy something that I am not going to use or that I am not 100% convinced of. I don’t like to store pots (because I’ve already made my mistakes about it, don’t you think 😉 ).
The neutral density filter is, however, one of those purchases that you do not regret. It allows you to get very creative photographs, in exchange for a very small space in your backpack and a relatively low outlay of money.
That is why, if you like to experiment, enjoy landscape photography, or long exposure photography, or if you simply want to increase your creative possibilities, a neutral density filter is a “Must” on your photographic equipment.
Neutral Density (ND) Filter Buying Tips
Neutral density filters are characterized by not altering anything other than the amount of light. That is, it does not affect the colors or the contrast of the scenes, they simply subtract certain steps of light. If you are interested in getting one, check out:
- The passages of light: the most frequent filters are 6, 8 and 10 steps and the most recommended are the glass ones since the gelatin ones tend to reduce the quality of the photographs.
- Take into account the lens diameter to which you plan to attach the filter. You have them in different diameters (49mm, 52mm, 55mm, 67mm, etc.).
- The price: It is worth investing not only in optics but in everything that we put in front of it. It’s no use having a spectacular lens if you put a plastic filter in front of it ;).
- Brand: K&FGobeB+WPitetc.
- Shape: Neutral Density Filters can be screw-in or fit into a filter holder.
- Don’t get confused with the neutral density gradient filter, which can also be very interesting, but it’s different.
How to use a neutral density filter
Using a neutral density filter isn’t difficult, but it’s also not screw-shoot and go. To use it correctly, you should know that this filter subtracts certain steps of light from the scene. The number of steps will depend on the type of filter you purchased. As I have already mentioned, there are different diaphragms (2, 3, 6, 7, 8…) so you must determine it based on the one you have.
If you are not sure how the steps issue works, this article will help you solve it: «The steps in photography explained in detail«.
Basically, the steps tell us about how to regulate the amount of light that we let pass through the sensor in photography. Let’s see it step by step.
1. The first thing is look for the place, the scene that we want to photograph. I recommend you to start with a continuous water source, such as a river or the waves of the sea. Keep in mind, however, that it will also work for clouds, or to capture movement in bright situations.
2. Once the scene is determined, mount the camera on the tripod and frame the picture. It is important that you do it now because with the filter on you may not see anything or very little.
3. For this reason it is also important that approaches correctly. You can do it in automatic mode, but once you determine the focus, deactivate it and switch to manual focus so that it does not refocus with the filter on.
4. To use an ND filter use the manual mode, which will allow you to decide the exposure variables (to learn how to handle the Manual Mode we have prepared this very complete guide).
5. The exposure settings will be determined by the scene in question, the filter you have and the result you want to achieve, but as a general rule:
- Set your camera to manual mode.
- Keep the ISO as low as possible.
- Use a slow speed. The longer the shutter is open, the more the effect of the long exposure will be noticeable.
- Use a closed aperture (it will allow you to have more area in focus while also helping to reduce the entrance of light).
- If you want a very pronounced effect, try shooting at sunrise or sunset, which will allow you to use even slower speeds.
- Also try shadow areas for even longer exposures.
- It is highly recommended that you shoot in RAW to be able to adjust highlights and shadows in processing.
- Pay attention to the changes that are taking place in the light (sometimes it varies very quickly).
Now, to that correct exposure, you must subtract the points of light determined by the filter. In my case it is 4 steps of light.
Filter specifications The filter mounted on the lens Preparing the equipment
It is possible that if your filter is not too dark or if there is enough ambient light, your camera will still be able to focus and calculate the exposure correctly. In that case, you won’t have to do anything special about it.
Case study on how to use an ND filter
It is usually easier to understand everything when we see a practical case, so I suggest you take a look at this section, where I show you with data and results the difference between using an ND filter and not using it.
Example (step by step) and comparison between the use (or not) of a neutral degraded filter
To take these photographs that you will see below, I chose the frame and placed my tripod securely. First I took the photos without a filter. To give you an idea of ​​the light, it was around 5:30 p.m. on a summer day, about 3 hours before sunset.
I looked for a relatively shady site, with moving water. Next, I adjusted my camera so that I could dim the scene by any means possible.
My EXIF ​​(or startup settings) were:
ISO 64 (I forced to have a lower sensitivity), f/16 (to subtract as much light as possible through the aperture), and I started with a value of 1/8s up to 1s.
As you can see, the movement of the water is appreciated, the longer I had the shutter open, the more the effect is appreciated, although it is not impressive 😉 .
ISO: 64, f/16, 1/8s ISO: 64, f/16, 1/3s ISO: 64, f/16, 1s Images taken with a Sigma 24mm f/1.4 lens NO NA FILTER
Now, see the difference by putting a filter on the same scene. In my case, I have already told you that I used a Benro filter that subtracts 4 steps.
ISO: 64, f/16, 2.5″. ISO: 64, f/16, 4″. ISO: 64, f/16, 6″. ISO: 64, f/16, 8″. ISO: 64, f/16, 10″. Images taken with a Sigma 24mm f/1.4 WITH NA FILTER
I think the result can be seen very well, here I show you the two images with the longest exposure time that I could achieve without burning the image, taking into account the light it had.
The photograph on the left has no filter, the one on the right does:
WITHOUT ND FILTER at 1″ WITH ND FILTER at 10″
How can I achieve a more accentuated silk effect?
- The more steps of light your lens has left, the more chances you have to use slow speeds.
- At dusk or dawn you will have less light and, in addition, more beautiful colors.
- Look for shady places.
- Use very tight openings.
- Shoot with the lowest possible ISO value.
- The longer the shutter is open, the more the effect will be accentuated.
- The faster the water (or your subject) moves, the more the effect will be noticeable.
In general, since the light changes more quickly than it seems, I recommend that you take several photos with different exposures, always making sure that you do not lose information in the shadows or in the lights. You already know that an over or under exposed image is unrecoverable in good quality, doing so only produces noise in the image.
If you like nature photography, walking by the sea or along the banks of a river in the middle of the forest, this lens takes up nothing and is a great investment that can take your photos from correct to impressive.
I hope this article has helped you. If so, give us a hand now by sharing it with those people you think may be interested in learning how to use this filter :). Thank you very much and until next time.